Royal Mile, Edinburgh
The Royal Mile (sometimes Historic Mile) is undoubtedly Edinburgh’s most famous street, and probably its oldest. Stretching from the Castle at its western end to the Palace of Holyrood House in the east, the Royal Mile is a breathtakingly beautiful - and historic - street. There is plenty to see and do along its length and a short distance on either side; some of which is noted below.
Notes : As it’s generally easier walking downhill than up, these places of interested have been listed from west to east (the highest to lowest points). Each point of interest has also been labelled North [N] or South [S] so you know which side of the street to look.
The Royal Mile has been broken into five sections -
Castle Terrace
Lawnmarket
High Street
Canongate
Abbey Strand
A glossary should help with some of the naming conventions used around the Mile.
Information sources.
Castle Terrace
Edinburgh Castle
(0pen April-Sept daily 9.30-6.00, Oct-March 9.30-5.00)
Goose Pie House
Home of the 17th C poet, bookseller and wigmaker Allan Ramsay.
Canonball House
[S] Late 16th C. A cannonball embedded in the walls marks the head height of the city’s first piped water supply. You’ll find this building at the top of the Castle Wynd Steps, which climb the steep slope up to the castle from the Grassmarket.
Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
[S] (open daily 10.00-5.30).
The Hub
[S] Festival Centre, Ticket office.
Boswell’s Court
Tenement built in c.1600.
Outlook Tower and the Camera Obscura
[N] (Open April-Oct, Mon-Fri 9.30-6.00, Sat and Sun 10.00-6.00, Nov-March,10.00-5.00)
One of Edinburgh’s top visitor attractions since the mid 1800s, with exhibitions of old photographs of Edinburgh, Holography and the Camera Obscura (fitted in 1853) which reflects a panoramic view of the City onto a white table. Originally this house was fitted up by Patrick Geddes in 1892 as “The nucleus of the University of the Future for all neo-technic thinking and teaching”
Ramsay Garden
[N] Take a wander down Ramsay Lane and you will find this wonderful property developed by Sir Patrick Geddes; arguably the innovator of modern town planning.
Lawnmarket
Once a market place for linen. Note that the name is from lawn, meaning ‘light cotton or linen fabric of fine weave’, rather than anything to do with grass.Scottish Central Library
[S] Erected in 1699 by Thomas Fisher, first chamberlain of Edinburgh.
Assembly Hall
[S] Site of the Annual General Assembly of the Church of Scotland.
Tollbooth Kirk
By Graham and Pugin (the latter, designer of the Houses of parliament in London) Now disused, there are plans to open this as a center for the Edinburgh Festival.
Riddell’s Court and Close
In this court lived David Hume before settling in James’s Court.
Milne’s Court
[N] From 1690. Named after the master mason to both Charles I and Charles II, John Mylne (1611-1667).
James’s Court
[N] Built around the mid 1700s, this close was home to both writer James Boswell and philosopher David Hume. The close fell into decline in the 1790s with the rise of the New Town, and was destroyed by fire in 1857.
Gladstones Land
(Open April-Oct Mon-Sat 10.00-5.00, Sun 2.00-5.00)
National Trust for Scotland 16th C house, restored and furnished to give the impression of life here in the 1600’s. Decorated wooden ceilings and 17th C painted wall friezes.
Writers Museum (Lady Stairs House)
[N] (Open June-Sept, Mon-Sat 10.00-6.00, Oct-May Mon-Sat 10.00-5.00. Open on Sundays during the Festival, 2.00-5.00)
Built in 1662 and now the home of the Writers’ Museum, with interesting relics and maunuscripts relating to Scotland’s greatest literary figures - Robert burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Brodies Close
[S] Named after William Brodie, a respectable member of the town council by day, but a burglar by night. He was hanged at the gallows which he had invented.
High Street
back to topThe High Kirk of St Giles
[S] St. Giles’ Cathedral- This is the High Kirk of Edinburgh and dates to the 15th century, although a church has stood on the site for over 1000 years. An inside visit will reveal the beautiful chapel of the order of the Thistle, one of the oldest orders of chivalry in Europe. There are some fine examples of ornate woodcarving. Later additions include the late medieval tower and “Burgh Kirk”. From here John Knox preached and directed the Scottish reformation in the early 1500’s.
Parliament Square
[S] Positioned at the rear of St Giles’, this was initially the churchyard. In the middle of the square there is a fine lead statue of Charles II, which is thought to be the oldest equestrian statue in Britain.
Parliament House
[S] Built for the Scottish Parliament 1632-1640, this building was used until the 1707 Act of Union. Step inside Parliament Hall and take a look at the stained glass window that depicts the inauguration of the Court of Session by King James in 1532. Also worth a visit within the building is the Signet Library, which is undoubtedly one of Edinburgh’s architectural masterpieces. It prompted George IV to exclaim that it was the most beautiful room he had ever seen.
City Chambers
[N] This is where the City Council meets. It built in the 18th century as a Royal Exchange where merchants and businessmen could conduct their affairs. However, the building received little use as the captains of industry preferred to make deals in the lascivious atmosphere of the taverns and other such hostelries. Therefore in 1811 the Town Council adopted the Exchange for its own use. Enter through the quadrangle that is dominated by Alexander the Great and his famous steed, Bucephalus. Built by Robert Reid (1776-1856) after designs by John Adam, architects who both embody the Age of Reason.
Heart of Midlothian
[S] 
This is a heart shaped pattern of stones that once marked the site of public executions and indicated the doorway of the Old Tolbooth, the town prison that featured in Walter Scott’s romantic novel also called Heart of Midlothian.
Mercat Cross
[S] Traditionally from whence declarations were made to the townspeople.
Mary Kings Close
[N] Closed after the plague of 1645, this building is again open to the public (at ?7 a pop).
New Assembly Close
[S] On this site was the mansion of Murray of Blackbarony around 1580. In the courtyard were the Dancing Assemblies’ Hall (1766 - 1784), the Commercial Bank of Scotland and later a childrens’ shelter.
Old Assembly Close
[S] This was the original location of the Dancing Assemblies Hall (1720 - 1766), and the residence of Clement Little; founder of the University Library. Here was also the home of Clement’s brother, Provost William Little.
Tron Kirk
[S] Now the Old Town Information centre
(Open April-May, Thurs-Sun 10.00-5.00, June-Sept, daily, 10.00-7.00. Tel: 0131-20-1637).
Marlyns Wynd
[S] Reputedly the oldest paved street in Edinburgh, this street was uncovered beneath the Tron Kirk during the construction of Hunter Square (in preparation for the building of South Bridge). The street is named after its creator, the frenchman Merlion.
Canongate
Originally ‘the Canon’s Gait’, this area lay outside the original Burgh of Edinburgh.Brass Rubbing Centre
(Open June-Sept, Mon-Sat10.00-6.00, Oct-May Mon-Sat 10.00-5.00, Open on Sundays only during the Festival, 2.00-5.00)
Surving remnant of the Collegiate Church founded in 1460 and now housing a collection of replicas of ancient Pictish Crosses and medieval brasswork from which you can take impressions on paper.
Carrubers Close
[N] Named after William Carriberis, a merchant, who had his mansion here around 1450. The building was a Jacobite resort in 1688 and was home to Allan Ramsay’s theatre in 1736. Magistrates closedthe theatre soon after.
Museum of Childhood
[S] (Open June-Sept, Mon-Sat10.00-6.00, Oct-May Mon-Sat 10.00-5.00, Open on Sundays only during the Festival, 2.00-5.00)
Historical toys, books, dolls, and much frequented by children.
Moubray House
[N] Daniel Defoe’s office, and thought to be the oldest surviving dwelling in the town, but unfortunately not open to the public.
John Knox House
[N] (Open Mon-Sat 10.00-4.30)
Devoted to the life and career of the Scottish religious reformer, this picturesque house has inscribed on the outside: “LYFE GOD ABUFE AL AND YI NYCHTBOUR AS YI SELF”. Knox lived in a Manse further up the Mile, near Warriston’s Close.
Plainstane Close
[S] Demolished in 1963, this close was adjacent to Chessel’s Court, on the west side.
Chessel’s Court
[S] Built in 1745 as mansion apartments.
Morocco Land
Restored early 18th C tenement which takes its name from a half length figure of a Moor on the front.
Playhouse and Old Playhouse Close
[S] This close led to the theatre and hall where plays were performed from 1747 to 1769.
St John’s Pend
[S] The knights of St John once had their houses in this area.
Moray House
[S] Once a college directed by Sir Godfrey Hilton Thomson, now owned by the Institute of Education.
Canongate Tollbooth
[N] (Open June-Sept, Mon-Sat 10.00-6.00, Oct-May 10.00-5.00, and also, during the festival: Sun 2.00-5.00)
The tower was built in 1591. The building now houses a museum: “The Peoples’ Story”, everyday life of the inhabitants of Edinburgh down the centuries.
Sugarhouse Close
[S] In this close now operates Scottish Courage Brewery, one of many which one operated near the Royal Mile.
Canongate Kirk
[N] Built in 1688 after James VII had given orders for the Nave at Holyrood Abbey to be converted from the parish church to the chapel for the Order of the Thistle.
Canongate Manse
[N] At the rear of Reid’s Close (named after brewer and bailie Andrew Reid). Formerly a nursery, this is now the manse for nearby Canongate Kirk.
[S](Open June-Sept, Mon-Sat 10.00-6.00, Oct-May 10.00-5.00, and also, during the festival: Sun 2.00-5.00)Restored 16th C, and now contains a museum of local history (the Museum of Edinburgh - formerly Huntly House Museum), and also relics relating to Field Marshall Earl Haig.
Dunbar’s Close garden
[N] The garden at the rear of this close was commissioned and funded by the Mushroom Trust - an Edinburgh charity which helps to establish urban gardens - in the mid 1970s, and is now open to the public.
Panmure Close
[N] This close was the access way to Lady Haig’s Poppy Factory from 1931 to 1965. The factory now continues its work from a new home on Warriston Road.
Panmure House
[N] Access via Lochend Close. Originally the town house of the Earl of Panmure, the house was later occupied by Adam Smith, the famous theoretician of political economy. Smith lived in the house from 1788 - 1790 and is buried behind nearby Canongate Kirk.
St John’s Cross
[S] This cross, embedded in the roadway, marks the site of the original standing cross of St John. This original cross was the boundary between Edinburgh and the Burgh of Canongate.
Scottish Poetry Library
[S] Founded in 1984, the Scottish Poetry Library is tucked away in Chrichton’s Close just off the Canongate.
RFACS
[S] The Royal Fine Art Commission for Scotland can be accessed via Bakehouse Close.
Golfers Land
[N] Built in the 17th century by Bailie John Paterson and demolished in 1960, this tenement was situated just to the east (Brown’s Close side) of the present day Jenny Ha’s Tavern. The tenement was built with the winnings of a golf match at Leith Links when he partnered the Duke of York (later King James VII) against two English noblemen.
Jenny Ha’s Tavern
[N] The original Jenny Ha’s Tavern (or Change House) stood slightly to the east of it’s present location, around where the Scottish Veterans Association’s Whitefoord House is today. The tavern was run by Jannet Hall following changes to the law which had, up until 1699, prevented the running of such establishments by women. Women in such positions were termed ‘lucky’, or a ‘lucky ha’ - hence the tavern’s name.
Whitefoord House
[N] Home of the Scottish Veterans Association.
White Horse Close
[N] From an Inn on this site stagecoaches used to leave for London.
Queensbury House
[S] Once home to the Duke of Queensbury (best known for putting his signature to the Treaty of Union in 1707) this building was later used as a hospital. Currently it is being transformed as part of the New Parliament construction.
New Scottish Parliament
[S] Designed by Catalan architect Enric Miralles.
Dynamic Earth
[S] History and Geology interactive ‘info-tainment’ for children and adults
Apr-Oct; 10.00 to 6.00,daily, Nov-Mar; 10.00 to 5.00, Wed-Sat.
Abbey Strand
Palace of Holyrood House
Legend has it that King David I, son of Malcolm Canmore and St Margaret, was hunting one day in 1128. His horse was startled by a stag which appeared from nowhere, and King David found himself hurled to the ground and in mortal danger of being gored by the stags antlers. In desperation he grasped hold of them whereupon they miraculously changed into a Crucifix. This story has echoes in the similar story of St Hubert in France. That night King David pledged to build an Abbey for Canons devoted to the Cross. Holyrood means “Holy Cross”.
By the early 1300s there was already a Royal Residence built adjacent to the Abbey Church. Now, the oldest part, on the left as you look at the entrance and front courtyard, was built in 1528-32 by John Ayton, master mason to James V. Later, in the 17th C, the present much extended form was created during rebuilding for Charles II.
Today the Palace is often used as a Royal Residence, and at these times it is closed to the public.
Glossary
Close
Close is an abbreviation of enclosure, generally a small square courtyard with housing on all sides. A narrow path would lead onto the main street.
Court
The centre of an enclosure.
Land
A single floor of a tenement building.
Lawn
A finely woven fabric - usually linen.
Pend
Another term for an enclosure.
Tenement
A tall building (the tallest recorded was some 14 storeys high - not bad for a building without lifts) which was constructed purely for housing. Each would house numerous families.
Toft
A strip of land given by the Council to merchants in the 1100s in order to entice them to live in the town. This land was granted on condition that a house was built upon it in no more than a year and one day. By the 1500s these strips of land were divided into ‘forelands’ (fronting onto the street) and ‘backlands’. The street was noisy and dirty so the grander houses were built on the backlands. These were reached from the street by passages or closes.
Tron
A public weighbridge.
Wynd
A narrow lane or alley.
Sources
The Town Below the Ground
© 1999 Jan-Andrew Henderson
Old Town Information Centre
The Tron Kirk
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» Brief History of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh from Birds in the Tree
I’ve updated the brief history of Edinburgh’s most famous stretch of road, The Royal Mile. The Mile has a long, and fascinating history; and is still home to a castle, a palace, churches, a cemetery, parliamentary buildings, housing and loc... [Read More]
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hi man you dont know me but you might of seen me @ edinbuhg fest . Me and my cuz were performing on the royale mile 4 3 weeks we were beatboxers we would like mto know if you had taken any pictures of the the 2 beatboxers {us} any way i love youre site its wicked and hope to hear frm u soon.
Posted by: lippicool | November 27, 2004 11:36 PM